Відео

Mostly because there is only one mems gryo on the market that can survive/give readings for 2000 RPM and its $50 per chip and they want a minimum order quantity I think there are prototyping boards for it, but they are more expensive again

@@TeamPanicRobotics That's just it though, gyros are horrible for such things due to drift. Magnetometers however are excellent if you can avoid them being influenced by everything and everyone (bots) in the vicinity. Try calculating a direction vector from x/y magnetometer once in your bot and see. Magnetometers are a tad finnicky to work with as you must calibrate em in your final bot and they may be a bit wonky on metal battle arenas, but should still be orientable once you select a direction. I used to love using InvenSense IMU's (now taken over by TDK and deprecated).

Thats part of why I have a heading adjustment knob on my controller to make small adjustments on the fly if the heading starts to wonder

@@TeamPanicRobotics I have no idea how the accelerometer works, but if you read out the value every few milliseconds I think the values could vary extremely depending on where on the wobble the measurement is taken. It might be nearly impossible to get stable readings.

Calculate G for rpm. 1in or 2.54cm from center of mass at 2000rpm 0.00001118 x 2.54 x (2000)² = 113.5888G's = a max rpm of 3750 if the lis331 is set to 400g max. If you ditched the vertical for a steel cable with a mace on both sides for a 18in total diameter when spinning at 2500rpm gives each mace 1600x there weight in hitting power just a thought. If each one was 250gm that's a 400kg impact not much in that weight class can withstand that and if that's not enough 3000rpm is 2300x there mass or a 530kg impact. It has a lot of potential

Dude, isn't the board he joined to the teensy a gyro? LSM6DSV16X is gyro and acc. H3LIS331DL is acc. Why?

@1kreature the board he is using is accel only no gyro. The reason is dynamic range The accel he is using is a good unit it can measure upto ±400g where 99.999% of units max out at 16g most gyro top out at 2000dps some will can get to 4000dps That's degrees per second and even 4000dps tops out at 666rpm. It's the restrictions of the gyros that force us to find other methods like using centrifugal force to calculate rpm. I still think adding a 940nm iron detector in the side of melty and a bright 940nm led light. This interrupt will let the bot correct for drift in real time keeping an extremely tight heading lock.

@@ZoeyR86 Wow, I did not see that! Thanks for correcting me! Using just accell is hopeless. In fact I'd cheat and also use a IR and light detector so I could record a "360 waveform" of my surroundings and use that for an extra fusion sensor reducing drift. The magnetometer has same effect and can be samples 8000 times a second (MPU-9250) and 2000 rpm is only 33.3 rps giving 240 readings per revolution. More than enough for navigation.

Btw, InvenSense/TDK is a bit vague on if (MPU-9250) magnetometer can actually be sampled at 8000 sps, but some other models can.

Thats on my list to do for sure, but I want to get it working first

collecting the RPM data is the goal of any melty design I tried in my old system reading the wheel speed and interoperating the RPM but wheel slip makes that noisy Yes the calibration is a bit of a band aid but I think if done right it will only needed to be calibrated at the start of each event

Thats what the accelerometer is for, by reading one axis, you can find the centripetal acceleration, then you can use some maths to work out the spin speed

@@TeamPanicRobotics I guess I don't understand the read out. I thought the accelerometer would show a constant force once up to speed, and I don't know how you calculate a fluctuating rpm from that value

If your using a imu get some 5lb die springs and mount it on a shock mount you need to dampen the 2000+ G's it's get knocked around by.

I am on the server, yes, but I dont use discord much Also yes I have met the Kasmer's last year at NHRL, we had a good chat about melty software and they let me drive project liftoff. I just havent had time to update my melty software since then, but I'm planning to soon

I have, the original idea for both versions of the spinner melty was hub motors, but I have not had the time to R&D one

Some of the Just Cuz hubmotors may be a good option.​@@TeamPanicRobotics

That is a good idea, might have to see what brushless motors I have that are best suited to shaft replacement

not in this version, but soon

This was a prototype and still needs some work I might release the final version when its done

the button is not needed. I cut it off

I have thought about it but decided against it for 2 reasons 1) the flysky radio I use is very basic and coding that mixing in would be a pain (and I dont trust it to fail safe) 2) I want my weapon speed to be independent of drive, all going well the weapon should be at 100% as much as possible

I'm sorry I dont really understand your set up or know enough about hoverboards to be able to help you with this

@@TeamPanicRobotics i tested your thing out it doesn’t work on my hoverboard wheels. I thought it would work but it doesnt. It’s because it both plug into a circuit board. Rather independent the firmware i uploaded to it on GitHub is only programmed to run backwards and forwards simultaneously

I just checked out one of diorama111s videos, the custom servo using a reflector and a lead screw is interesting

DAMN! thats super fast

@@TeamPanicRobotics if you are at Open Sauce, you can try it at bot bash.

Glad you like it! I was worried people might not click on a blur

Hahaha one way to find out

Nope, same set up on the transmitter Just in the tank, hook up 2 escs per channel (or two motors per esc if you are running brushed motors) Much much easier to do somethings in hardware then try to over complicate the software

maybe, but I'd prefer to add the weight to the front. It means I have a bigger weapon and means I'm not adding geometry my bot can get stuck on if its upside down or on its back

I've heard of people doing it, would be interesting to see if the weight cost of adding a gyro is worth the drivability increase

@@TeamPanicRobotics Probably more important for 1lb or 3lb robots. Still tiny and twitchy enough for it to really help, but large enough so that a few grams of extra electronics wouldn't be a huge issue. I was wondering since that Malenkis integrated receiver/esc would be really trick if they also threw on a small gyro chip. Some of the 1/28th scale RC car electronics do that.

A drag race would be cool to see, hmmmm

I did that in my mini orbitron build I've been considering it for TIAP, but havent fully decided yet I was worried I didnt have the weight for it, but that seems to not be an issue anymore

Fingers crossed! As long as I can keep it controlled I think I'll at least be on par with my opponents this time

Not intentionally no I've used TPU before and it basically is ablative armour, especially if printed with enough walls and infill

Totally agree! I was surprised by the power I got out of them and those engraved speed numbers are going to help for sure I think I might end up using them a lot more

@@TeamPanicRobotics They are pretty much all I use in 150g and 1lb bots anymore. I had given up on N20s until I found them. Plus they are a great family and sponsor our competitions so we can give out prizes to the winners.

Because the n10s turnabot sells can put more power down then the amount of traction you can get in a 150g

Agreed, 150g robots dont need a lot of power to get moving, even these n10s spin the wheels before they stall out So there is no point running n20s if you've got n10s. The n10s are lighter and will do the same job (especially in a spinner where you dont care about pushing your opponent, you just want to get the weapon to them)

There’s been a few attempts and none of them work outside of drone combat leagues.

@@Lumakid100there is one at nhrl that works

@@IronOre33 Spitfire's the exception, not the rule.

@@Lumakid100ok lol

@@Lumakid100 So you were knowingly lying, when you said "none of them work".

What kind of 9v battery and what kind of ESC? In this video, I use a lithium rechargeable 9v to power 2 brushed ESCs no problems The issue you will have is current draw, disposable 9vs especially ones designed for long term use (like smoke alarms) wont give lots of current quickly, so they wouldn't like spinning up a brushless motor with a weapon on it, but they might be able to give enough current for 2 wheel drive The kind of rechargeable 9v I used in this video can give more current, so is better suited to run an ESC but even so, only small current ESCs and motors To give you more info, I'd need a lot more information on what it is you are trying to do with what specific components

Thx for replying I'm tryna use the 9V metal batteries you'd see in a grocery store and the kind of esc I'm tryna use is a brushless 30A ESC

I think its very very unlikely that a grocery store 9v battery will give 30A, I think they are rated for like 1A maybe less You will need a proper lipo

Ok thanks

It was! good catch

Yes, as far as I know, never done it myself, but seen others do it online I've also seen people use them to remove multi pin chips

you dont need to use components as small as I did in an ant weight, I just needed to because otherwise I would have run out of weight

They are correct in your engineering class, a crimped connector does not need soldering I was talking about the pre-crimped connectors and calling wire/connector assemblies a "connector" Its not technically accurate, in some ways, but as it is common to call the whole assembly a connector I often do

It does depend on the application For combat robots the voltage quoted for a motor is often quite useless, fights are 3 minutes long so even if you are running a motor on 2 or 3 times more voltage then its rated for, it should be fine. It will get hot, but it shouldnt die in 3 minutes For other more longer time period applications, choose a motor voltage higher then or equal to your battery voltage (but also here "motor voltage" can be kind of useless, as oftern the "motor voltage" is just the voltage the seller tested the motor at, and there is little to no difference between a "12v" motor and a "6v" one. The biggest thing really is the motor size, as that determines how much wire can fit into the motor which determines the voltage it can run on without over heating. So if you see 2 motors the same size, one a "12v" motor and one a "6v" one, you should be fine to run either on 12v) TLDR: dont worry to much about the rated voltage of a motor, just dont go to far over it for too long

@@TeamPanicRobotics thank you,it was very helpful :)

@@TeamPanicRobotics also you spelt bridge wrong in the title